Here In The Dust
Culinary gems are hiding in Tucson
As the American West grew and expanded, tract homes and irrigation took over the raw desert landscape. Soon Phoenix and other sprawling desert metros replaced the native trees’ burst of yellow spring flowers with imported palm trees, silver sage scrub bushes were uprooted for green lawns, and lifeless decorative gravel covered the flickering specks of mica found across the original desert floor. But, in Tucson, Arizona — a city cradled by towering mountains draped in the wilds of the untamed desert — it is impossible to draw the line where the Sonoran Desert stops. Here, the desert’s aura finds its way into everything from the rhythms of everyday life, to the inspiration behind this city’s ingredients and cooking techniques, creating a food and drink culture that’s unique unto itself.
Rune Winery
The desert may not be the first place you’d imagine finding spectacular local wine, but like the baked slopes of France’s Côte Rôtie or the punishing terraces of Spain’s Priorat region, the high desert of southern Arizona confirms the age-old truth that grape vines thrive when punished. Located just south of Tucson, a relative newcomer—Rune Winery—has already cemented itself as one of the Southwest's premier wineries. Focusing on classic varietals from Spain and Southern France, and low-intervention wine techniques, such as wild yeast fermentation, Rune is producing fascinating wines that capture the rustic beauty of the land. Their Wild Syrah is a classic Rhône co-fermented blend of predominately Syrah, with the addition of Viognier, Malvasia, and Roussanne to add blood orange and lifted floral notes to the robust flavor profile of bramble berries, black olive, and peppered cured meats. Their wine portfolio goes on to include a refreshing rosé made in the classic saignée style, alluring white wines filled with character, seductive dessert wines, and fascinating reds ranging from light and easy to complex and thought-provoking.
It’s often said that a wine can only be as good as the setting you pour it in, and Rune delivers in spades. Their winery consists of a retrofitted aircraft hanger and terraced tent-covered sitting areas that overlook a desert vista that would make any Wild West movie location scout swoon. You may only be visiting for a tasting, but once the setting sun’s Midas touch turns that vista to gold, it’s nearly impossible to not take a seat next to one of the campfires and enjoy a shared bottle of wine and enjoy what feels like the edge of civilization.
Crisol Bar
Tucson isn’t Scottsdale; nor does it care for the pomp and circumstance that would require. There’s an intentionality about Tucson’s scene, a quiet reverence to craft that gives ingredients the seat at the head of the table, and a palpable preference for intimacy over flare. Sure, you can find bottle service here, but the true Tucson spots do not insist upon themselves — most won’t even display their names on an illuminated sign.
Tucked into the brightly painted historic neighborhood of Barrio Viejo, Crisol Bar has adopted a business model that those who have traveled to Europe will recognize; coffee shop by day, quiet bar by night. Having taken over a small barrio bungalow, Crisol focuses on artisanal mezcal, tequila, and other desert spirits, serving them up in a setting that feels like you’ve been invited to an eccentric Western author’s cozy writing outpost. Along with pours of curated agave spirits that will unveil to you the categories’ full spectrum of flavors and terroirs, Crisol’s menu features cocktails mixed with housemade infusions, tinctures, and ingredients rooted in Sonoran culture — everything from a warming poblano pepper infused Sotol to a creosote bush that smells like desert rain. The connection to the local culture doesn’t stop with chiltepin tinctures and corn husk ash, you’ll also be able to order delicious tamales and other local bites to compliment your evening’s libations.
As you relax into one of Crisol Bar’s tanned leather couches, or handcrafted wooden armchairs and take that first sip, you’ll quickly realize all you want in life is a barrio bungalow where you can write poems about desert nights or paint storms rolling over purple mountains.
Tito & Pep
The smell of green chiles roasting over a fire, the centering aroma of the desert after a monsoon rain, July’s first Watermelon Eegee (IYKYK)…these are the smells that will bring any Tucsonan back to their childhood. And then there’s the smell of mesquite wood. It was the smell on our hands after climbing up to our tree forts, of winter mornings when the cold air held the neighborhood’s chimney smoke low, or campfires where we laughed with friends or had our first kiss. That sweet nostalgia has catapulted the locally produced Whiskey Del Bac into national recognition and has made the neighborhood bistro Tito & Pep an instant classic in Tucson.
The warm ambiance of Tito & Pep’s midcentury modern, southwest boho-clad dining room can only be matched by the comforting smell of the mesquite grills they use to prepare nearly every dish on their menu. As hearty and rich as wood-fired food can be, the menu is perfectly balanced with bright, delicate offerings inspired by the nearby Sea of Cortez fare that provides patrons with the opportunity to create a build-as-you-go tasting menu begging to be shared. With a curated wine list and cocktail program designed to compliment that season’s menu, Tito & Pep expands the idea of a Southwest grill-out into exciting new horizons.
Find Beauty In The Dust
As the metropolitan sprawl eats up more of the Southwest, it’s comforting to know there are still western vistas calling out to wandering hearts, and quiet corners where you can still hear a soft word. Whether you’re looking for a sunset to ride off into, a comfortable chair where your weary soul can find respite in a pour of Mezcal, or a welcoming table to share an honest meal with your forever love, there is a good chance Tucson is hiding the very thing you’ve always hoped to find.
